The rose is beautiful and, without any doubt, is the “queen of flowers. Correctly planting roses and taking care of them, you can enjoy the beauty of his rose for many, many years. You just need to learn how to follow some simple rules for cultivating a beautiful crop. Learn the basics of the rule: planting, fertilizing, watering, pruning, cover for the winter.
Planting of roses
The most important condition for abundant flowering of the bush is the place for planting. Roses are sensitive to light and heat, so they should be planted in places that are well lit and reliably protected from cold winds. The best place in the south and southeast side of the site because the rose enjoys the morning and afternoon sun. Shady places are suitable only for wicker varieties.
It is recommended to plant roses in spring. Beautiful roses are heat-loving plants, and once the soil is well warmed up and the buds have not yet blossomed, you can start planting roses. Planting in the fall is a risky business because not every rose bush can fully take root before the frost and often dies.
Before planting, carefully look at the roots: cut all damaged parts to living tissue, leave the remaining roots no more than 20 cm. Shorten the shoots on the bush, leave strong shoots with 6 buds, medium shoots with three, weak, and dried out cut out completely.
The planting hole for the rose should be wide and deep so that the roots of the bush after planting are spacious. It is very important to cover with a layer of earth the place of ophthalmology (inoculation) for 5-7 cm, the soil around the bush tamped and abundantly watered (a bucket of water per bush). Protecting the seedlings from the bright spring sun, cover with non-woven material. Disappoint the shoots and remove the shelter when the ground is completely heated, and the size of the shoots will reach about 5cm.
The soil is prepared in advance: fertilized with mineral and organic fertilizers. Of organic – the best fertilizer for roses is manure, and the first fertilization with complex mineral fertilizer should be thorough, but no more than 15-20 g per bush. An excessive dose will hurt roses.
For spring planting roses, the soil is prepared in autumn, everything is quite simple: dig out large pits to a depth of 1.2 m in diameter half a meter, fill with drainage (branches, coarse crushed stone, expanded clay), from above lay a mixture of land garden and hummus, adding mineral fertilizer. In the autumn planting of the pit under the bushes cook for a month and a half. The best seedlings – plants for the first two years. To stimulate the growth of roses, when planting, you should cut the tops of the shoots.
In the following video, you will be able to see how to prepare for planting and plant a boxed rose in spring. The author will show you how to properly spread the roots of the plant, prepare the planting hole and plant the “queen of flowers”.
Taking into account the size of the pink bush variety and the growth rate it is recommended to observe the interval when disembarking from half a meter to one meter. In fact, you determine the distance between the bushes individually, pursuing the goal.
Large bush roses also look great in single plantings (for example, a lawn and in general any free corner of the garden). In the rosary, you must keep a distance of one and a half meters (or 1.2 m) from the neighboring bush.
For miniature rose bushes, which are planted to create curbs (by the paths or the circle of the bed), a distance of sixty to seventy centimeters is enough.
Types of wicker roses like “loneliness,” but you should consider that in this state they do not stay long – the bushes grow quickly. If you want to create a “wall” of wicker roses plant seedlings at a distance of one meter to two. In spring, roses are also transplanted, try not to damage the roots and small spine branches.
How To Care Of Roses
Rose care – is loosening the soil, weeding, fertilizing, watering, fighting diseases and pests, pruning, and forming a bush.
For roses to develop normally and flower abundantly, they must be fed. Roses are very grateful for the timely feeding. The first feeding should be done in spring when the buds appear, and the second – in mid-summer, for abundant flowering. At the end of summer, you don’t need to do feeding to avoid the appearance of new shoots, which will not mature for overwintering.
Today, a lot of complexes for fertilization have been developed, so it is easy to find the right fertilizer. Do not “overfeed” the rosebushes with a large dose of fertilizer, otherwise, the reaction of the plant will be unpredictable: from increasing the green mass to stop flowering or even development. Do not forget to apply some over-fertilized compost or manure under the bushes in early spring in two or three years.
Once a week, the roses should be abundantly watered, preferably in the early morning or evening. The soil around the bush should be loosened constantly so that it is not overburdened, as the roots need constant oxygen access.
Cut roses every spring until the kidneys wake up. Completely remove the weak and sick, old, and dry stems, be sure to remove the sprout, which appeared below the place where the vaccination was made, otherwise, the bush will degenerate into a rosehip.
In practice, different types of pruning are used: weak, when there are 8 to 12 buds left on the shoot, moderate – with 4-6 buds and strong – cut off most of the shoot, leaving only 2-3 buds. Strong pruning is often required after a bad wintering so that the bush refreshes more quickly. Rose trimming is done with a sharp tool to avoid mechanical damage to the bark, wounds should be covered with a garden brew.
Many gardeners have a question of whether it is necessary to cut buds on roses in autumn.
With the onset of cold weather to think about hiding rosebushes. Today, some varieties of acclimatized varieties can hibernate without shelter. But florists say: in the harsh winter bushes can die. It is necessary to choose the best time to insulate the roses, and this is the beginning of November, because if you do it early, there is a possibility of danger to the roots, because they have already started to fall asleep and they can not come to life.
Many fans of roses make a big mistake, excessively “bathing” their roses for the winter frost. In this case, the roses die because of the ripening of the bushes. Do not cover roses for the winter with stubble or branches – so roses die in spring (most often in March).
If you have not found peat, cover the bushes in winter just lose ground, as the frost increases, pouring it with a slide on the cone (no more than 10-15 cm). In the third decade of March, all shelter devices should be removed, heated peat or earth, and a week later – two can feed the roses.
Three or four times a season, the roses should be sprayed with special products to combat fungal diseases, rust, and pests.
Today the assortment of roses includes numerous kinds, shapes, and varieties. Every year it is replenished with about 200 new varieties. For decorative landscaping, roses are grown mainly in two groups: park and garden.
Park roses are species and varieties that grow without requiring shelter, or winter with easy protection. Special attention should be paid to spiky, femoral or small-leaved roses, cinnamon, red-leaved or gray, rusty, shiny, yellow, prickly (wrinkled), and others. The group of park roses also includes frost-resistant species – a variety of centifolia, Damascus, white and French.
Garden roses are bred selectively and agricultural machinery is actively used in their cultivation. They are quite delicate and must be protected in winter. Currently, more than 20 thousand varieties are grown. The most popular are groups of wicker roses, semi-wooled, miniature, Cordes roses, moss roses.
Rose is a very fragrant flower. And if your rose garden is filled with noble bushes, you will constantly admire the continuous flowering of the repairing, floral waterfalls of wicker, collect wonderful bunches of miniature species, and breathe in the fragrance of the most beautiful flowers on earth.
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