European Beech Tree: Tips on Buying, Caring for & Cutting

European beeches are classic trees and look a bit nobler than hornbeams. Our expert tips will help you keep it in shape as a hedge.

The common beech ( Fagus sylvatica ) is also known colloquially as beech because it is the only type of Fagus beech in Central Europe. With 15% it is the most common deciduous tree in the USA forests. But a beech is not only good as a mighty tree, with the right cut and a little care it can also be transformed into a wind-resistant and undemanding hedge. Even in winter, the deciduous tree offers good privacy protection, because most varieties do not lose their autumn leaves until spring. That is why red beeches are the hedge plants par excellence, especially for promoters of the local flora.

Buy red beech and beech hedge

Seedlings for your new property delimitation or the long-awaited windbreak are available in the garden center, in the tree nursery, or can be purchased online. But the choice is not limited to the selection of the most beautiful variety for you. It must also be considered whether container or bale goods should end up in the ground.

How much does the beech tree grow and how big can it get?

If the location is well chosen, European beeches grow rapidly at a young age. Up to the age of 50, a height and width growth of 40 to 70 cm per year is achieved. The beech has a real growth spurt between April and May. The shoots then hang a little limply to the ground. However, this subsides over the course of the year as the lignin formation progresses. The red beech owes its name to the reddish color of the young shoots. If the common beech is not cut into a hedge, the trees can reach heights of up to 30 meters. The trunk reaches a circumference of up to two meters.

European beech tree: healthy plants

When bought, bale goods usually look more like a dead stick than the beginning of a magnificent hedge. However, if the plants are healthy, they will come out vigorously in the same year. When unpacking the plant, pay attention to whether any injuries can be seen. This also applies to container goods. In addition, the plants should have a size of at least 60 cm when buying.

Buy beech hedge: bale or container plants?

Bale goods are cheaper but have to go straight into the ground after purchase. Container goods in pots are more expensive and heavier, the plants do not have to be planted immediately. Both variants are equally good for growth. Anyone who can plant their hedge in the ground on a weekend saves money with bare-root plants. For those who want to take a little more time, container goods are better suited.

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Plant the beech hedge

There is not much to consider when choosing a location for your hedge. Find a sunny to a partially shaded spot. Young European beeches in particular are relatively shade-tolerant. The wind is also excellently tolerated after it has grown, which is why the hedges can serve as wonderful wind protection. About the soil, it must be ensured that clay soils are not well tolerated due to the increased risk of waterlogging. Deep, nutrient-rich, permeable sandy to loamy soils are preferred. The plants are very compatible with the pH of the soil. Whether acidic or alkaline, the European beech thrives.

When is the beech hedge planted?

Planting time for European beeches is in late winter to early spring. So that the seedlings feel completely comfortable, planting should take place on an overcast and windless day. In addition, the soil should not be too wet, and under no circumstances should it be frozen.

Procedure for planting the beech hedge

Good preparation of the soil is particularly important here. This preparation is best done in autumn. Otherwise, you have to plow through the hard winter earth. Loosen up the entire area intended for the future hedge by digging up to three times the depth of the root ball. After that, the earth is mixed with ripe manure or compost. This improves the permeability and soil quality. Proceed as follows for later planting:

• Ball goods: put the roots in water for several hours before planting
• Removal of all weeds in the planting area
• Stretch a straight line to straighten the hedge
• Planting hole/trench: 2 – 4 times as wide as the root ball and flat; Pile up soil slightly in the middle
• Remove all injured roots with clean, sharp secateurs
• Put seedlings on the elevation in the planting hole; Carefully place roots on the sides
• Fill the planting hole with soil so that all roots are covered and press down
• Position the pouring edge and press it on

The accumulation of soil in the root area must be avoided at all costs.

Tip: If you are struggling with very poor soil, you can also use high-quality organic soil for planting your beech hedge.

European beech hedge: the correct planting distance

Untrimmed, the crown can shade an area of up to 600 m². Planted in a hedge, the trees are not nearly as wide. When planting in rows, two to four plants are planted per meter. An offset double row can also be created so that the hedge grows nice and tight. The following applies here:

• Bale goods: 5 – 7 plants per meter
• Container goods: 4 – 6 plants per meter

This sounds like a lot of scrubbing in later times, but you have to assume that not every seedling will get through. The resulting gaps are then closed by the surrounding seedlings and provide the necessary space. However, it is not only important to pay attention to the distance between plants and neighboring plants. Maintain at least the legally prescribed distance of 50 cm to the property line or walls. The hedge can be kept in check around the top, but the roots like to blast the asphalt or lift pavement slabs.

Water the beech hedge after planting and mulch

After planting it is poured vigorously. Fill up the pouring rim and let the water seep away. This will remove air bubbles and the earth will settle. Lastly, a good layer of mulch, lawn clippings, leaves, or mature manure lands on the root area. This layer insulates, protects against evaporation, and keeps unwanted weeds at bay. Since the seedlings are still very sensitive, a protective cover for the trunk is recommended. This protects the young building from wind and pests. Spiral plastic tree guards that expand as the tree grows are best.

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Maintain the beech hedge properly

European beeches are the ideal hedge planting for beginners because they do not need a lot of maintenance. Neither constant fertilization and watering nor winter protection are required once the plants have established themselves.

Water and fertilize the beech hedge properly

In the first two years, in particular, your hedge is dependent on additional watering. This is only necessary when the soil around the trunk is dry. When watering, keep in mind that European beech cannot tolerate waterlogging or prolonged dry periods. It is fertilized once a year with slow-release fertilizer, compost, lawn clippings, or horn shavings.

Alternatively, liquid fertilizer in the irrigation water is regularly fertilized during the growth phase. Make sure you use a primarily organic fertilizer. This has a depot effect and is much more environmentally friendly than the mineral alternative. Organic universal fertilizer is also a primarily organic long-term fertilizer. It can be put into the planting hole when the beech hedge is planted and is applied in spring in the following years. You can find more details on the correct fertilization of (red) beech hedges here.

A tip for opponents of leaf raking: Leave the leaves underneath the hedge, this will inhibit the growth of weeds – thus double labor savings. The leaves also serve as an additional source of nutrients for the trees and as protection in winter.

European beech hedge in winter

The common beech is a deciduous tree that is native to us and copes perfectly with our winters. In autumn the leaves shine in the typical autumn colors until they have reached their final brown phase. With many varieties, the leaves are not shed until spring, so the hedge also offers good privacy protection in winter. Our privacy is of course not the reason for keeping the leaves.

They serve as additional protection because the trees tend to develop sunburn. Protect young, deciduous trees with burlap or sticks. The plants have no problem with the temperatures. They are hardy down to -30 ° C. Well-grown hedges, therefore, do not need additional winter protection. A protective layer of mulch is spread over young hedges. This protects against evaporation, which is much more likely to be a problem than frosty temperatures. In addition, additional watering is used on frost-free, dry days if necessary.

Cut and shorten the beech hedge

Beeches grow very quickly, especially when they are young. A regular cut is essential so that your hedge does not grow too much over your head and you generate nice branches.

European beech hedge: when to cut?

For optimal hedge growth, it is cut back twice a year. The first cut is made on a frost-free, dry and overcast day in March – before the beech’s first growth spurt. After a mild winter, pruning takes place in February. Scissors are used a second time between June and August. This means that new shoots have enough time to mature before the first frost. Sick and damaged shoots are removed all year round.

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European beech hedge: how much cut?

You don’t have to be squeamish with a beech hedge. A strong pruning ensures a nice, dense growth. However, this stronger cut should be reserved for the first cut. Here you can find out exactly how the skillful cut of a beech hedge should look like and what needs to be considered when shaping it. The second cut is only moderately thinned and unwanted side shoots are removed. Otherwise, you get into the enclosure of breeding birds. If you want to allow the local bird families to rest, postpone the second cut to a point in time after the breeding season or just cut back very carefully. The breeding season usually ends at the end of June.

Radically shorten the beech hedge

In the case of older specimens, radical pruning is well tolerated and should take place every few years. With the rejuvenation cut, very old branches are removed and the hedge is thinned out inside. All shoots can also be shortened into the old wood. Leave at least three eyes for new shoots to form. The rejuvenation is used to make room for new shoots and takes place in February or March.