<\/span><\/h3>\nWith potted hydrangeas, in particular, the nutrient supply should be replenished annually employing spring fertilization. This gives the plant a good start into the growing season. Further fertilization can be carried out in summer. With this optimal supply of nutrients, nothing stands in the way of rich flowering. Choose a primarily organic fertilizer for panicle hydrangeas, such as our Plantura organic hydrangea fertilizer with long-term effects. Typical deficiency symptoms and diseases of hydrangeas are prevented by organic fertilizer. Work it lightly into the soil to increase its effectiveness. You can also put it under the layer of mulch so that it is well moistened and starts working quickly.<\/p>\n
Caution<\/strong>: Hydrangeas have rather shallow roots, so you shouldn’t dig too hard underneath them or loosen the soil so as not to damage the roots.<\/p>\n<\/span>Water panicle hydrangeas<\/span><\/h3>\nUnlike most hydrangea species, panicle hydrangeas can survive drier periods. However, in order not to expose them to unnecessary stress, you should always keep the soil around the plants moderately moist. Water regularly and make sure that the root ball never dries out completely. It is advisable to water the plants from below. This prevents water from getting on the leaves and flowers.<\/p>\n
<\/span>Propagate panicle hydrangeas<\/span><\/h2>\nPanicle hydrangeas can be propagated from cuttings. To do this, cut off about 10 to 15 centimeters long, healthy, and only slightly woody shoot tips without flower buds from the hydrangea between June and July. Remove all leaves except for the upper pair of leaves and place them in cultivation containers filled with substrate.<\/p>\n
A peat-free seed-soil such as our Plantura organic herb & seed-soil is ideal as a substrate. It is advisable to mix the seed compost with sand or perlite to increase the permeability and to achieve better-rooting success. The cuttings are about 2 to 3 centimeters deep into the soil and lightly pressed. Keep the substrate continuously moist and make sure that the water reaches the cuttings as low as possible. In a bright place without direct sunlight and at a temperature of around 15 \u00b0 C, they take root and grow into new hydrangea plants.<\/p>\n
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<\/span>Hibernate panicle hydrangeas<\/span><\/h2>\nPanicle hydrangeas are hardy. When buying your panicle hydrangeas, make sure to choose robust plants from specialist retailers that have been well hardened. In addition, you should always use organic or mainly organic fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers endanger the frost hardiness of plants, especially if they are used too late in the year.<\/p>\n
In the case of panicle hydrangeas in the bed, shallow roots can be covered with a light layer of mulch to protect them from frost damage. Hydrangeas planted in pots should be wrapped in jute sacks, garden fleece, or bubble wrap in winter to be on the safe side. With older panicle hydrangeas, protection in the lower area is sufficient, young plants should be completely covered to be on the safe side.<\/p>\n
Alternatively, panicle hydrangeas can also be placed in light, protected winter quarters in winter. However, do not overwinter panicle hydrangeas too warm. A long-lasting cold stimulus is necessary so that the plant can successfully sprout again in the next growing season and form flowers.<\/p>\n
Tip<\/strong>: If Hydrangea paniculata is<\/em> overwintered indoors, it should be slowly accustomed to the light again in spring. Because if it is put outside from one day to the next and exposed to intense solar radiation, it can quickly suffer from sunburn.<\/p>\nIf you would like to find out which bee-friendly shrubs are still available for the garden, we recommend our special article about the 15 most beautiful shrubs for bees.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
What is the perfect location for panicle hydrangeas? What do you have to consider when fertilizing panicle hydrangeas? Everything about planting and caring for the hydrangea can be found here. Hydrangeas exist in many different types and varieties and have become an indispensable part of our gardens. This is also confirmed by its name –…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":19353,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_post_transparent":"default","_kad_post_title":"default","_kad_post_layout":"default","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"default","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"default","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[64],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19352"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=19352"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19352\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":28274,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19352\/revisions\/28274"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/19353"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=19352"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=19352"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=19352"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}