{"id":10091,"date":"2020-12-06T13:22:31","date_gmt":"2020-12-06T18:22:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/?p=10091"},"modified":"2023-01-05T16:48:51","modified_gmt":"2023-01-05T21:48:51","slug":"aeschynanthus","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/","title":{"rendered":"Aeschynanthus (Lipstick Plant) &#8211; Care Instructions &#038; Propagation"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Aeschynanthus (Lipstick Plant) are evergreen herbaceous perennial hanging plants that grow lithophytically (on or in rock) or epiphytically (as sit-on plants) because originally they belong to the tree inhabitants.<\/p>\n<p>The leaves on the hanging shoots are usually shiny and oval. The attractive flowers develop on the tips of the shoots individually, in pairs, or clusters, depending on the species.<\/p>\n<p>The most hanging stems or shoots can be branched or unbranched and can reach a length of up to 60 cm. The tiny seeds of this plant can be found in up to 50 cm long capsule fruits, depending on the species.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10089\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Lipstick-Plant-red-flower-with-green-leaves.jpg\" alt=\"Lipstick Plant red flower with green leaves\" width=\"750\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Lipstick-Plant-red-flower-with-green-leaves.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Lipstick-Plant-red-flower-with-green-leaves-300x180.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Profile\"><\/span>Profile<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2><div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_65 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-grey ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\">Table of Contents<\/p>\n<label for=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-6616aa82627d0\" class=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-label\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/label><input type=\"checkbox\"  id=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-6616aa82627d0\"  aria-label=\"Toggle\" \/><nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Profile\" title=\"Profile\">Profile<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Plants\" title=\"Plants\">Plants<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Location\" title=\"Location\">Location<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Substrate\" title=\"Substrate\">Substrate<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Pouring_and_fertilizing\" title=\"Pouring and fertilizing\">Pouring and fertilizing<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Hydroponics\" title=\"Hydroponics\">Hydroponics<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-7\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Overwintering\" title=\"Overwintering\">Overwintering<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-8\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Cutting\" title=\"Cutting\">Cutting<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-9\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Repotting\" title=\"Repotting\">Repotting<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-10\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Sowing\" title=\"Sowing\">Sowing<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-11\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Pests_Aphids\" title=\"Pests: Aphids\">Pests: Aphids<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-12\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#Spider_mites\" title=\"Spider mites\">Spider mites<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-13\" href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/aeschynanthus\/#FAQ\" title=\"FAQ\">FAQ<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n\n<ol>\n<li>The scientific name is Aeschynanthus.<\/li>\n<li>Belongs to the family of the gesneria plants.<\/li>\n<li>The Aeschynanthus\u00a0is an evergreen hanging plant.<\/li>\n<li>Grows herbaceous and persistent.<\/li>\n<li>Needs relatively high humidity.<\/li>\n<li>Flower color red, orange, and partly yellow.<\/li>\n<li>Flowering time from June to October.<\/li>\n<li>Leaves are leathery and evergreen.<\/li>\n<li>Growth height or shoot length between 50 and 150 cm, depending on the species.<\/li>\n<li>In winter a little cooler.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10092\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-radicans-three-flowers.jpg\" alt=\"Aeschynanthus radicans three flowers\" width=\"750\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-radicans-three-flowers.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-radicans-three-flowers-300x180.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Plants\"><\/span>Plants<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>You can plant the Lipstick Plant all year round. The planter should be rather high and should have appropriate drainage holes so that excess water can drain off without any problems and stagnant moisture and thus rot is avoided. As the lowest layer, fill in appropriate drainage material such as gravel, expanded clay, or clay fragments.<\/p>\n<p>A suitable substrate is filled onto the drainage and the plant is placed. Then fill up to about 1 cm below the edge of the pot with a substrate and press it lightly. Under no circumstances should the soil be pressed too firmly, because the roots will not be aerated sufficiently. After planting the Aeschynanthus is watered abundantly.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10093\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-in-the-pot-on-the-table.jpg\" alt=\"Aeschynanthus in the pot on the table\" width=\"750\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-in-the-pot-on-the-table.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-in-the-pot-on-the-table-300x180.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Location\"><\/span>Location<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>All species of the genus Aeschynanthus thrive well in summer as well as in winter in light of the semi-shady and warm locations at temperatures between 20 and 25 degrees, although somewhat cooler temperatures are more recommended in winter. Direct sunlight should be avoided as well as too dark locations.<\/p>\n<p>Light shade in the morning and evening hours is optimal. Draughts should also be avoided if possible. High humidity is important, which is why these plants are particularly suitable for rooms with a more humid climate such as the bathroom, the winter garden, or a greenhouse.<\/p>\n<div class=\"su-note\"  style=\"border-color:#e0dda0;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\"><div class=\"su-note-inner su-u-clearfix su-u-trim\" style=\"background-color:#faf7ba;border-color:#ffffff;color:#000000;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\">During flowering, this plant is very sensitive to large temperature fluctuations and changes of location and would therefore shed buds and flowers. Therefore, it should not be moved during this time.<\/div><\/div><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10094\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/lipstick-plant-red-flower-and-green-leaves.jpg\" alt=\"lipstick plant red flower and green leaves\" width=\"750\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/lipstick-plant-red-flower-and-green-leaves.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/lipstick-plant-red-flower-and-green-leaves-300x240.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Substrate\"><\/span>Substrate<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>The substrate should be air-permeable and slightly acidic.<\/li>\n<li>A pH value between 5 and 6 is good.<\/li>\n<li>Peat moss with the addition of perlite or vermiculite is very suitable.<\/li>\n<li>Both in equal parts.<\/li>\n<li>This ensures that the roots are sufficiently aerated.<\/li>\n<li>A good alternative to this mixture is coarser peat moss.<\/li>\n<li>This can be used without any additives.<\/li>\n<li>You can also use normal potting soil.<\/li>\n<li>This can be loosened up by adding clay granules.<\/li>\n<li>Or you can mix ready-made substrates with swamp moss and fiber peat.<\/li>\n<li>Commercially available bromeliad is also possible.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10096\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-in-the-garden.jpg\" alt=\"Aeschynanthus in the garden\" width=\"750\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-in-the-garden.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-in-the-garden-300x180.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Pouring_and_fertilizing\"><\/span>Pouring and fertilizing<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>The Aeschynanthus should only be watered moderately, but the root ball must always be slightly moist. During flowering, more watering may be necessary. The substrate should not or only slightly dry up in the meantime. However, species with the firm and thick leaves can cope well with drought for a short time. Only lime-free and room-warm water should be used for watering, preferably rainwater. Stagnant moisture must be avoided at all costs.<\/p>\n<p>Fertilization can be done from March to August with low-dose nitrogen and lime fertilizer, for example, a fertilizer for flowering plants. Freshly repotted plants should not be fertilized for the first 6-8 weeks.<\/p>\n<div class=\"su-note\"  style=\"border-color:#e0dda0;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\"><div class=\"su-note-inner su-u-clearfix su-u-trim\" style=\"background-color:#faf7ba;border-color:#ffffff;color:#000000;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\"> For sufficient humidity, it is advisable to place the plant in a stand filled with pebbles and water. Make sure that the pot or root ball is not in water. Also, the plant can be sprayed from time to time with lukewarm, lime-free, and soft water, which also counteracts pest infestation. Lime-containing water would leave unsightly stains on the leaves, among other things.<\/div><\/div><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10097\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Lipstick-Plant-basket.jpg\" alt=\"Lipstick Plant basket\" width=\"750\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Lipstick-Plant-basket.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Lipstick-Plant-basket-300x180.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Hydroponics\"><\/span>Hydroponics<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>Aeschynanthus also thrives in hydroponics, but there are some things to consider. It should be avoided to change existing plants from soil to hydroponics. It is better to cut fresh cuttings and let them root already in the hydro pot where they will stay in the end.<\/p>\n<p>If you want to repot a plant that has been cultivated in the soil in hydroponics, you should remove all soil from the plant, e.g. by washing out the root ball. If soil remains on the plant, this will inevitably lead to rotting and in the worst case to the loss of the plant.<\/p>\n<p>Until rooting, appropriate evaporation protection is recommended, e.g. from a translucent film. Equally important is a low level of the nutrient solution so that the roots do not rot and can be supplied with sufficient oxygen. A low nutrient solution or water level can be ensured or monitored with the help of a water level indicator for hydro pots.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10098\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-basket-in-the-room.jpg\" alt=\"Aeschynanthus basket in the room\" width=\"750\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-basket-in-the-room.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-basket-in-the-room-300x240.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<div class=\"su-note\"  style=\"border-color:#e0dda0;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\"><div class=\"su-note-inner su-u-clearfix su-u-trim\" style=\"background-color:#faf7ba;border-color:#ffffff;color:#000000;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\"> To check the level of nutrient solution, so-called hydro tanks can also be very helpful, with which one can set the respective level accordingly low.<\/div><\/div>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Overwintering\"><\/span>Overwintering<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>While the Aeschynanthus prefers temperatures between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius from March to August, it has a resting period in winter, when it can be much cooler and drier, although temperatures should not fall below 12 degrees. For plants that are already a little older, the formation of flowers or buds can be stimulated or promoted by keeping the plants concerned significantly drier during the winter or from February for about two months at ambient temperatures between 12 and 15 degrees.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10099\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-at-home.jpg\" alt=\"Aeschynanthus at home\" width=\"750\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-at-home.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-at-home-300x240.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>When cultivated under warm and humid conditions with temperatures of about 22 degrees, Aeschynanthus does not usually hibernate and grows all year round. However, the observance of a dormancy period is decisive for bud formation and as a result should be observed as far as possible.<\/p>\n<div class=\"su-note\"  style=\"border-color:#e0dda0;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\"><div class=\"su-note-inner su-u-clearfix su-u-trim\" style=\"background-color:#faf7ba;border-color:#ffffff;color:#000000;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\"> If the plant is a little lazier in flower, it may be helpful to winter it a little cooler the following winter.<\/div><\/div>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Cutting\"><\/span>Cutting<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>Aeschynanthus normally does not need pruning.<\/li>\n<li>If too many shoots have formed, some can be cut out.<\/li>\n<li>This plant usually ages with age.<\/li>\n<li>Then you should consider pruning it back vigorously.<\/li>\n<li>It is better to grow new plants immediately with the help of cuttings.<\/li>\n<li>Damaged and diseased shoots should be removed regularly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10100\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-in-the-white-pot.jpg\" alt=\"Aeschynanthus in the white pot\" width=\"750\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-in-the-white-pot.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-in-the-white-pot-300x240.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Repotting\"><\/span>Repotting<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>As soon as the root area fills the entire pot or the roots are already growing out of the bottom of the pot, it is time to report the Aeschynanthus. Usually, it is possible to report it all year round, but this is not advisable, because if buds have already formed, the plant could discard them by repotting.<\/p>\n<p>It is best to report in early spring or autumn after flowering. The new pot should be only slightly larger than the old one. However, you can also use the old one again if you shake the old soil out of the root ball and cut the roots back by about a third. It is important to have a thick drainage layer again, which you put into the pot as the lowest layer. On top of this layer comes the substrate in which the plant is placed. Water well after repotting.<\/p>\n<p>The propagation of cuttings can be done all year round. To do this, one cuts head cuttings about 10-15 cm long and then places them in small pots in a mixture of sharp sand and peat in equal parts, 2-3 pieces at a time. The soil temperature should be between 25 and 30 degrees. When propagating in winter, it makes sense to place the pots on a radiator.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10101\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-basket-green-leaves.jpg\" alt=\"Aeschynanthus basket green leaves\" width=\"750\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-basket-green-leaves.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Aeschynanthus-basket-green-leaves-300x240.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Once the cuttings are in place, put a translucent plastic bag over the cuttings or the pots to ensure a constant high humidity. Then place them in a bright but not fully sunny place at normal room temperature. If the cuttings show the first shoots, this is a sign that roots have formed.<\/p>\n<p>Now the plastic bag can be removed and watered moderately. The pot ball should always be evenly moist. After a further 1-2 weeks, the young plants can be transplanted into their final plant container and cultivated further like fully-grown plants.<\/p>\n<div class=\"su-note\"  style=\"border-color:#e0dda0;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\"><div class=\"su-note-inner su-u-clearfix su-u-trim\" style=\"background-color:#faf7ba;border-color:#ffffff;color:#000000;border-radius:8px;-moz-border-radius:8px;-webkit-border-radius:8px;\"> Rooting the cuttings in a water glass is not recommended, as the sensitive roots could be severely damaged later on during planting, which could ultimately lead to the total loss of the plant in question.<\/div><\/div>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Sowing\"><\/span>Sowing<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>The best way to propagate the Aeschynanthus is to use cuttings but sowing is also possible. Before sowing the seeds, it is advisable to scarify them briefly, which should facilitate germination. The best way to sow the seeds is to use a standard mini-greenhouse, but translucent foil will usually do. Fill the respective sowing container with soil, spread the seeds on it, and cover them lightly with soil.<\/p>\n<p>Commercial <a href=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/hoya-kerrii\/\">cactus soil<\/a> or young plant soil is very suitable for sowing. Now the substrate is moistened and the planter is covered with foil. This should be aired briefly every day to prevent mold and rot. It can then take a few weeks or even several months until germination, depending on the quality of the seeds.<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Pests_Aphids\"><\/span>Pests: Aphids<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>If an infestation with aphids has been detected, one should act quickly to prevent it from spreading. First of all, the plant in question should be isolated to prevent it from spreading to neighboring plants. In case of a slight infestation, it may be sufficient to spray the plant with a stronger water jet.<\/p>\n<p>In the case of an advanced infestation, you can mix water and detergent in a ratio of 8:1 and spray the plant with it using an atomizer or a standard spray bottle. The substrate should be protected beforehand by a cover to prevent this mixture from reaching the soil. The plant should also not be placed in the sun. Leave it to stand for one day and shower it thoroughly with clear water the next day. If this does not help, specialist dealers offer appropriate sprays.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10102\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/aphids-on-the-leaf.jpg\" alt=\"aphids on the leaf\" width=\"750\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/aphids-on-the-leaf.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/aphids-on-the-leaf-300x180.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Spider_mites\"><\/span>Spider mites<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>Deformed, blotchy leaves and fine white webs on the plant indicate spider mites, a typical winter pest. They feel particularly comfortable in warm, dry air. In the case of a slight infestation, it is usually helpful to spray the plant. The substrate should be covered. To combat a more severe infestation, certain types of predatory mites can be used or special spray agents from specialist dealers.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-10103\" src=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Spider-mites.jpg\" alt=\"Spider mites\" width=\"750\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Spider-mites.jpg 750w, https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Spider-mites-300x180.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"FAQ\"><\/span>FAQ<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<div class=\"su-spoiler su-spoiler-style-fancy su-spoiler-icon-plus su-spoiler-closed\" data-scroll-offset=\"0\" data-anchor-in-url=\"no\"><div class=\"su-spoiler-title\" tabindex=\"0\" role=\"button\"><span class=\"su-spoiler-icon\"><\/span>Why does the plant lose leaves or flowers?<\/div><div class=\"su-spoiler-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim\">If the Aeschynanthus loses flowers or leaves or both, there can be several reasons. For example, a sudden change in temperature can be just as much a cause as a location that is too dark, a change of location, or too low a humidity level. Accordingly, one should pay attention to optimal conditions and care.<\/div><\/div>\n<div class=\"su-spoiler su-spoiler-style-fancy su-spoiler-icon-plus su-spoiler-closed\" data-scroll-offset=\"0\" data-anchor-in-url=\"no\"><div class=\"su-spoiler-title\" tabindex=\"0\" role=\"button\"><span class=\"su-spoiler-icon\"><\/span>What can be the cause of light-colored spots on the leaves?<\/div><div class=\"su-spoiler-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim\">Light-colored stains on the leaves can occur, for example, if the watering water is too cold or has been poured or sprayed with water that is too calcareous. Excessively calcareous soil can also be responsible for this. It is best to use only rainwater for watering and make sure that the substrate is suitable.<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Aeschynanthus (Lipstick Plant) are evergreen herbaceous perennial hanging plants that grow lithophytically (on or in rock) or epiphytically (as sit-on plants) because originally they belong to the tree inhabitants. The leaves on the hanging shoots are usually shiny and oval. The attractive flowers develop on the tips of the shoots individually, in pairs, or clusters,&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":10104,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_post_transparent":"default","_kad_post_title":"default","_kad_post_layout":"default","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"default","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"default","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10091"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10091"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10091\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":27685,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10091\/revisions\/27685"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/10104"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10091"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10091"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gardender.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10091"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}